| Archive for The Brittany Forum For all friends of the versatile Brittany |
| Patricia |
basicsIt appears some folks appear to have problems with heel work, obedience etc...running off, getting run over on the road being one of the tragic consequences.If you are going to work your Brittany, it needs to be aware of game scent and reasonably young. Whatever you do with your dog, my idea is- and it is my finding- that obedience HAS to be installed. Whether you do field work or else, direction, blind retrieves, it boils down to obedience and routine sessions. I always start by heel work as I hate a Brittany which pulls. Voice is really important as well as praise. I hold my long lead in my right hand and the lead is slack. If the dog pulls I check with my left hand and command " heel" praise and titbit. Another exercise is the sit which I demand. Command and push down on the rear end not its kidneys though  I always carry a whistle and blow it as soon as I ask for a sit. That is the beginning of the drop on command.
All exercises are done close and then I use a long line, so no mucking about and leaping up or down etc...Once good basics are well into the dog's brain, it is amazing how much more pleasurable those walks or other activities become. 
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| Mugi |
........... and don't give up when hormones kick in  .
Chase has been hard work but also sooooo worthwhile. He will behave well for me and do all the basics with bells on but he pushes my buttons cos he is bright  . In the field he can be quite awe inspiring as he has soo much natural talent and he will use it in partnership with me, not just for him.
This week he has really been testing me, I think cos he and Piper are forging an unholy alliance. I could give up but am too stubborn......so his life has returned to NILIF. This evening he was demanding supper so guess who had to work for it and not gob in my face???? |
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| guy |
I have come across two schools of thought - one says put in heel work early and the other that puts walking to heel as the last thing to be taught.
I personally don't like having a dog pull me along, if I wanted that I would have got a huskie. When a beginner i came across a lot of advice along the lines - each dog is different and know your dog. All this is fine when you have something to compare it to but a little hard to implement when this is your first time through the process. As Patricia says you have to decide what you want from your dog. I would go a little further and say if you don't expect much you will never get much. Firstly develop a very limited vocabulary and if possible maintain the same tone of voice to deliver those words. Avoid superfluous words as these only encourage the dog to jump to its own conclusions - 'get off' 'get over' 'get in' - 'get' brings nothing to the party. ' sit down' is a contradiction to most dogs - 'sit' is one thing and 'down' another. Second be consistent. If you don't want a dog to jump up then don't allow it to jump up - at any time; it won't know you have had a bad hair day. Puppies are sweet and endearing but how will a dog know it can do something as a puppy and then not be expected to do it as an adult? Be persistent. practice makes perfect. If you are trying to teach a 'trick' and the dog doesn't get the idea you automatically leave it until the next day and try again. The same applies to a 'skill' if it does not catch on try again, later. Fun - or perhaps this should be 'no pressure' when a dog is young it will learn as you play. |
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| sallie |
 and if it doesn't work? Monet is 2.5 and has NEVER walked to heel (maybe he could have a trip to you Patricia) - the only way i have got around this problem is to control the ground in front of him, this i do with 'whistle to sit' if he gets too far ahead i whistle - also it has to be done off the lead. You can start this sort of training in backyards and lanes where it is quiet and NO game distraction.
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| Liz |
What do you do if your dog ignores the treats! I've tried various from plain kibble up to pepperoni, but if Oz isn't in the mood he will just totally ignore them. He did it last night at class - off lead he just looked at me and went in the opposite direction 
If he is in the mood he will heel off lead beautifully, with or without treats. 
I've always had problems with my dogs on the lead STARTING their walks. Once they've had some off lead time they're great coming home. |
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| Patricia |
What Guy says makes good sense. Everyone has different expectations. Some are perfectionists, some are sloppy. Some don't care if the dog heels "sort of", some want it beside the knee.
I was brought up with a strict father, we had to sit up at the table, hold our cutlery correctly and ask to speak at the table too! I expect no less of my dogs>  No one is allowed to come tearing out of the kennels, they have to wait til" released" and heel for a few yards, I don't let them barge past the door, and pulling on lead is a NO NO...
I start them at about 4 months and use voice to express what I think they will understand. If the dog does not respond to tit bits, I scratch the chest area with a pleased voice. If he/she pulls I do an " about turn" and stop. I either use a slip lead or check chain, which has never been an issue in all the years I have done it.( but not on puppies) If they pull, I stop and growl at them. When this is established, we go off lead. I do this in a yard, not grass. ( smells can be too tempting) I try to get the dog motivated. Carry a piece of cheese and get them" watching". And only do it for a short while, I don't believe in boring a young dog. If not successful( in whatever) I put the dog away. Start again the next day, it usually sinks in better. Repetition is the key imo. I also NEVER reward the dog with a walk or anything pleasurable if he does not do what I ask of him first.
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| rachieh |
What do you do when you dog has gone backwards ... ? I would really appreciated some advice on this.
Scout lived with our breeder out in Canada for 7 months when we had to return home to the UK in a hurry - he had not completed the pet passport process. While there, he lived the working/show/kennel life and was hardly on a lead at all. He was never great at heeling in the first place (he is only 2) and now every walk is a battle. I can't let him off leash as his recall is too unpredictable and there are no completely enclosed parks locally - roads too dangerous. I have had sessions with two local trainers but it is all very food reward oriented and he just doesn't care about cheese once he smells those smells! He's good in the house and listens to me, but loses his head once we get outside. Any advice? |
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| guy |
Hi there - without seeing you and the dog it is hard to say. But I think I would go back to some fundamentals.
sit before being given his food, allowed to eat only on command. Sit before going outside through a doorway and you going first and calling him out. in other words those things that reinforce our position as 'top dog' You need the dog to be 'looking up' metaphorically to you, and therefore wanting to know what to do next rather than it doing its own thing. Come down to Hampshire - I can suggest a couple places where you can run him deer fenced fields. Could also give him a run out with a dog that will come back. |
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| annemcc |
Problems with Pulling on Lead - advice pleaseHi,I've never posted before but our Brittany puppy (Beano) is almost 1 year and we are still having problems with pulling on the lead. We have been to 3 trainers and put in loads of work every day but we are obviously doing something wrong! In the house he is fantastic and very obedient but as soon as we are out he just can't contain himself. We have tried check chain, halti waving a cane in front of his nose and turning round every time he pulls. The turning around method has been the most successful for us but we don't get very far... He does get off the lead every day and recall is good for my husband but not for me. Any suggestions would be very welcome as my back cannot take much more! Thanks, Anne |
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| doganjo |
Don't let him have his free running till he stops pulling. Take him out on the lead, making him sit till you go through your door/gate etc. Use the turning round method and also reversing, and if he pulls take him straight back inside with NO WALK! He will learn quickly. | ||
| Joanne |
Please don't use a check chain, they will only damage the throat. Unfortunately in my experience all Brittanys pull. They want to be the first there!!!
I have a variety on control aids, haltis, Dogmatic halter (which is the best as it very soft and fits much better than the others) harness that tighten under the legs when they pull) etc. However I walk 4 or 5 at a time and therefore there is always a competition. They are all very good on the way back though. If I am walking just one then walking without pulling can be done. Please go to a class. Find a roll on roll off one, I always think they are better then you are not paying for a course when you might miss some weeks and find a trainer you can get on with. Go without the dog first and get a feel for how they teach and whether you like them. Brittanys test us all but they are worth it. You MUST be persistent and consistent. If they get away with it once you have to go back to the beginning again. As said in other posts, make them wait when the door opens, you go through first and then they come to you. No barging and leaping around allowed. Train the sit in every place and with every distraction. 1 year old is a very strange time for a dog, the hormones are really kicking in and they are in full teenage years. I always say that dogs who have known all the commands up to this age, now go deaf anywhere up to 15 months and should be put back on a lead and monitored closely so they do not get away with anything until they have calmed down again. However, calm for a Brittany is not the same calm as for a Labrador. I do not know where you are but please try to find someone with a Brittany that you meet or come to our training day in October. You will meet others that can help. Joanne |
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| Waldo |
In regards to the basics, I've learnt a very important lesson the last few weeks. As many would be aware my Annie has had her fair share of health issues and a couple of weeks ago we went out hunting and her skin condition looked quite bad and the vet wasn't overly positive. I'd made the decision if she was moving around OK in the morning she would come with us, after all what is the worst thing that could happen 9I was starting to think her career was almost over). Anyway, she worked OK then late in the day we entered soem new ground that was more open and held a good number of rabbits so I let her run and play. The following week or so the wheather was quite wet (at last) and we didn't do much training. We went hunting last weekend and she was a total ratbag and spent most of the day on a lead attached to my belt, she has also been barking more than usual in the yard. The three day's since the "ratbag" went hunting I've had her out for about an hour each day and not given her an inch of freedom, she has responded beautifully and even cut down the barking in the yard. Give them an inch and they will take the proverbial mile, but in the end they really want to be controlled and I think the basics is what makes everything else possible.
Cheers, Waldo |
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| annemcc |
ThanksThanks for all your advice, I'll give it a go. I am based in the Glasgow area. Do you know of any classes with Brittany experience in this area?Thanks, Anne |
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| doganjo |
Hi Anne
One of my pups is in Clarkston but my geography is rubbish so I can't remember if that's close to you or not. I'll put you in touch with Alison so you can ask where they go, as Bonnie is coming along quite well. Does your own vet not have classes or know of some nearby? Tell Thomas not to let him off free till you have the lead walking sorted. He has to do heel work as well as you. I'm happy to chat to you any time - just call. I told you that when I gave you Patricia's name for a pup when I didn't have enough to let you have one! If it's any consolation I'm just getting Allez to walk to heel now - and he's 3! Annie |
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| Patricia |
Just clicked....Sorry to hear about how naughty Beano is I have seen all the rest of the litter and most are coming on really well with only one sister being naughty due to handler being too soft  : the owner will know who I am talking about
Give me a ring any time if you are worried. Beano' other sister Djinnie is very trainable. Dougal-brother- is very excitable but you need a firm hand especially at this age! |
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| Patricia |
I have been sent this link by the lady who owns Lorca X Taz's daughter Nenette. She worked for Roger Mugford. Check her link if it helps?
Otherwise ring her and explain you have a Breton too, she is...French! http://www.surreydogtraining.co.uk/about-pauline-gloyens.html |
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| annemcc |
Hi,
We've been to lots of classes(v stressful) and had several one to ones ! I blame the owners . He is good for about 10 steps then a leaf blows in front of him and I just about lose an arm. When other dogs are about it is impossible.
Thanks for the link Patricia - I'll have a look. If you could send me that info Annie that would be great - it would be great to see another Brittany of similar age to gauge if we are expecting too much/too little and to figure out what we are doing wrong. I am hopeful though because he is so good in the house. He does not go upstairs, on the couch unless invited etc. I am convinced the ability is there - we're just not teaching it correctly! Thanks again, Anne |
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| Patricia |
Anne, please contact Pauline, her English is great and her enthousiasm infectious. She actually changed her job because I would have taken notice of someone who works with MR Mugford. He is very well known.
It appears many people have a problem with Brits pulling on the lead though I personally don't have that issue but I am very firm with the dogs...and unlike Joanne I still use check chains which for me work very well. I know it is not PC but I don't care!
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| Wyngold |
I guess after 30+ years in dogs I have never damaged a throat using a check chain, prong collar, or ecollar. Each has it use....
Even a head collar can cause damage in the worng hands no matter who manufactures them! What one needs to learn is how to use the proper training tools for the situation at hand. A side note there are dogs out there who will cough and gag and act like they are being choked with little or no pressure applied even to a plain buckle collar. What you do with these dogs and your response determines whether they will continue to use this behavior to escape compliance, or the behavior fades away because it got no sympathy response from you. It is like the first time you place a collar on a puppy it will spend days scratching at it, maybe even refusing to eat or drink in some more dominant pups. I do not have pulling problems on dogs that I seriously work with. I do have a few "soft" dogs who I do not correct at all the first few months and loet them be a bit willful and then apply pressure in training later. As they say you cannot use cookie cutter methods for every person or dog to teach. Knowing the individual dog is a must. One catch phrase I noted in the posts "Bolt after a leaf that blows by" what this tells me about this particular dog is that it has a high chase drive...dogs like this have to be worked at "fast pace" not a leisurely walk. The faster you walk & the more sudden and quick unannounced turns such as rights and abouts will get the dog to focus on you since it is harder to predict which way you are going. Another trick is to litterally keep annoying the dog walk into its body, trip on his legs when you trun left, then suddenly spin about face. If you are quick and random in your direction a dog who is chase drive motivated will catch your movement and eventually will totally focus on you. He will think "by gosh this one is strange I cannot tell if we are going in this direction or that....she keeps bumping into me! I better watch this one and be prepared!" Did your instructor ever tell you what the turns are used for???? Right turns for lack of attention and going wide; About turns for dog moving infront of your body line...pulling; Left for dogs that cling/crowd or touch you so they do not have to use their eyes to watch you. Some dogs like to sit at heel and lean on your leg so they can look around and they will know when they need to get up as you shift your weight to move. Dogs are very motion and body signal aware. Another exercise for this kind of dog is focused attention training, and long sits for examinations to teach settling. Sit at side and have distraction very far away and over a period of time they move closer. Have many dogs and people walk circles around the sitting dog and handler. If the person doing the training is physically incapable of applying the correction with enough force to be effected using a training tool to assist is probably necessary. Example I have trained owners with obnoxious 90pound dog and the owner is a 5 ft 120pounder. Sometimes the right tool such as a prong collar is needed. When fitted correctly and of the correct weight (not overly heavy), all it takes to "remind" the dog is a slight flex of the wrist. There is no trauma to throat, no heavy jerking sideways or rearwards...it is all about learning the proper use of the tools necessary. Reward for a high chase dog is probably ball or throw toys as motivators when channeled in this direction. When such a dog is distracted and lunges....call its name when it looks at you throw the toy for him...eventually you teach the dog that your calling it can be rewarding. Toy that allow you to stuff with treats are good ones to teach with and transfer to balls and wean the food off. |
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| Mugi |
In addition to the tips you have been given (Chase will walk well on a loose lead mostly but I have to concentrate on him as give and inch and .................................. ) one of the best things I was 'taught' was to use a harness for control when you want to get from A to B quickly and only ever use your collar and lead, be it a flat collar or slip lead, when you are prepared to use the 'heel' command and reinforce it through the whole walk.
Chase knows 'heel' as opposed to 'sniffs' now - the one means behave properly, the other means you can potter about at the end of the lead WITHOUT pulling. Yes we have days when it all goes to pot and certain stimuli will set him into pulling. I just stand rock solid until he remembers his manners. Be consistent and it is possible to have even a high prey drive dog walking ok on a lead, Chase is 28 months old and I am guessing a half brother to your pup? He has been doing particularly well heelwork wise since he hit 2 - prior to that he was a maniac on springs .
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| Patricia |
I feel it depends on how much they can take advantage of you....
I can't stand a dog which pulls, so they pull no...walks. 2 years of pulling, what a nightmare
These are tough cookies, and I go along with Goldie' treatment of such behaviour. My sister had a Shepherd with prong collar, he never took any harm from it. I feel some in the UK are getting soft. sorry.... |
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| doganjo |
Well if you want a broken and torn coat then go ahead. I used a check chain on my trainers advice for a week last month and it has made a real mess of the back of Al's neck! It'll take ages to grow back.
And I abhor many of the so called 'training aids' they use in USA and would not tolerate them near my dogs. They are downright cruel. But that's another subject. No doubt Ms Coats will defend them as she has opinions on everything. But we do things differently in the UK. I cannot see that our Breed is so tough as to need such things. Every animal (including human beings!) will respond to consistency and being taught what to do rather than just mindlessly ordered to. JMHO |
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| guy |
I come to this from a different standpoint on this one- whilst it seems to be the accepted norm 'that it is a Brittany and it will pull' I don't think they have to, or rather you don't have to accept it. I walk my three at heel both on and off the lead. I do however have to keep reminding them what they are doing.
I to am not an advocate of the choke chain, not because of the damage it might do but because I believe if the dog needs heavy correction with a choke chain type collar it has not learned the required act properly in the first place. Likewise the half choke or martingale collar and of these I have yet to see one properly fitted. Dogs pull into a collar – period – it is a natural reaction for them; choke chains will not stop a dog pulling, I have seen a dog in a spike collar straining so hard it was gasping for breath – so they don't work either. (it was a Bulldog in France) I am also not an advocate of some of the head collars available– in fact I think some of these are more dangerous than a choke chain – think this- a dog is pulling into a collar, and a 'lead correction' is given, the collar is at the base of the neck, the thickest and strongest part. Now think of a dog in a head collar, a similar lead correction is given but here the head is rotated at the top of the neck – the weakest part Now think how we used to hang people to execute them? The head jerked rapidly sideways against the bodyweight so that the head rotates around the spine and the spinal chord is severed. A final thought on this area – is there much physiological difference between a dog pulling into a collar so hard that it is gasping for breath and the old fashioned practice of 'helicoptering' where a dog was suspended vertically by its lead? There is a problem, if we are going to compare a Brittany with a Labrador – but if we look at them from a different point of view we may not be looking at a problem to solve but an ability to refine. Taking a step back. Do you recognise any of these activities? Highly energetic. Extremely playful, with you, by itself and with other dogs. Intense greeting after an absence by mouthing your clothes and hands, barking and running around. On a walk does not look to you, or focus on you for long, if at all – but is constantly scanning the horizon. When free runs from one interest to another- impulsively. Is at the end of the leash when at the beginning of a walk, but improves after a period of free running. In the car paces franticly, pants a lot, constantly changes windows for a better view. An 'average' dog displaying these traits would be classed as hyperactive and treated as such. A child with similar traits could be considered to suffer from Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD) and treated accordingly, often with medication and always with special teaching methods. The skills of persistently seeking, of scanning the horizon for the new, of energetic and tireless running, high sociability – linked as it is with fearlessness of new situations are all traits that make a great gundog and have been selected for over succesive generations. So how to deal with it? Grandin in her book on the understanding of dogs from an autistic person's point of view, discusses the difference between us and a dog when it comes to brain – we have highly developed frontal lobes and a dog doesn't; on the other hand a person with autism has the frontal lobes, but there is impaired communication between these and the lower parts of the brain – making the way an autistic person processes information somewhat similar to a dog. Briefly, for this thread, she points out that dogs see 'detail' and are obsessed by it – they see the leaves on a tree as different to a tree without leaves and see the leaves and the trees before the wood. It thus only takes a small thing to upset or change a dogs understanding of a situation. She notices also that cattle when put into a crush for vetting became very docile and invented a 'squeeze' machine – something that gave all over body pressure and induced a sense of well being in autistic persons.. Dogs have a basic reasoning – they operate to maximise the return on their effort – in fact much as most of us do. Thus they do have expectations of outcome for an action and if the outcome falls above or below this expectation then they will adapt their behaviour accordingly. If expectation and outcome match no change is going to happen. If there is a jackpot – wow! If a behaviour is not rewarded then display of that behaviour is going to stop happening – why waste effort on something that brings no response? However there is a little sting in the tail with this one - if the behaviour is rewarded every so often, and not even in a predictable manner then no amount of ignoring it will make the behaviour stop. Think of chasing a bird or rabbit – if every so often one is caught ...... So how is all of this going to help with walking to heel? 1.Hyperactive children respond better to treats given on a very regular basis rather than wait for one big pay-off after a series of responses. So try your Brit with very regular rewards for walking to heel. 2.Training with a clicker links a reward for an action by marking that action with a 'click'. A word – say 'good' will do just the same if linked to a reward. Research has also found that it is the use of the click or word (once linked to the reward) that ceates the response not the reward itself. So praise is very important. 3.If the dog is given a large handful of salami or warm chicken bits instead of a bit of kibble – it is going to think 'wow that was worthwhile' - I know I would. Jackpot. 4.Does the dog understand the word 'NO' . That it means NO not just 'please don't do that as I will not be very pleased; Make sure the dog understands NO. 5.Have 'kind words' ? These can be a whole sentence – the dog of course will not understand but will understand the tone. I personally use the word 'fine' – it seems a more caressing word than 'good' and allows 'good' to be used as a marker word as mentioned in 2.. So you can have 'good sit' 'good dog' 'good heel' - you have reinforced by repetition the command and added a reward word. Double whammy. 6.Caressing – from Grandin we learned the benefit of pressure – so caress with long firm strokes not a pat on the head (which is a dominance signal anyway so not really appropriate as a reward). Add 'kind words' at the same time and you have a way of using words to imply the physical reward. 7.Don't forget the lead. If you cannot control a dog close to how do you think you will control it well away? If retrievers need to do lead based heel work and we all know how docile they are then a Brittany surely does. 8.Start off with the left foot, tapping the thigh with the left hand. The hand focusses the dog on you and the left foot gives it another visual cue. Remember detail for dogs – when leaving the dog in a 'sit' start on the right foot. Left for heel, right for stay. 9.A great advantage of lead based heel work is the build up of the relationship between you and the dog; reinforced as it can be with food rewards. If the dog is not focussed on food for these exercises then skip a days feed. They don't feed lions in zoos every day – as in the wild lions would not catch something to eat every day; so missing a meal or two for a dog is going to be no different. But it will be grateful for food rewards when training. 10.If the dog pulls ahead step across in front of it – turn left and left again if necessary. A dog won't want its paws trodden on! A variation to this is the right turn and of course the about turn. All need the do to pay attention to what you are doing so build up attention. Lots of verbal praise and reward words. 11.The use of a small twig to tap the nose or flank works well when used as a 'reminder' surprisingly a stalk of grass or flower is equally effective. 12.Are you in charge? If you are not in charge then the dog is. A lot of humans have a 'care and share' relationship with their dog. What a dog is looking for is safety and protection and 'place' . 13.Don't give a command you are not in a position to enforce. So if you instruct sit, make sure the dog does sit. If you don't all you have done is trained it not to sit when it is told. 14.Don't give another command until the first has been complied with. 15.Remember they do detail – a walk in the park is not the same as a walk in the woods. They need to have the experience. Walking to heel with one owner is not walking to heel with the other – necessarily. 16.The trick with 'corrections' is not physical punishment but ' surprise' . Breaking the dog's train of action or thought. One of the beauties of the metal choke chain is the ability to flick ones wrist and get the chain to 'click' reminding the dog; to yank it and throttle the dog is not the way to use one. A bunch of keys thrown near the dog will break its train of thought and I find a scrunched up lead very useful as it is always with you and also if you hit the dog with it no damage is done. 17.A rope or leather slip lead is very convenient for putting on and off in the field – bearing in mind a working dog does not wear a collar as this might get caught in branches. It is also very useful when training as it can be located at the very top of the neck, just behind the ears (there is a small groove if you feel the neck at this point; into which to locate the collar) a dog can be easily lead in any direction when the lead is thus placed. This allows correct behaviour to be rewarded readily and regularly. 18.Keep sessions short – 5 – 10 mins max followed by some play. The Brittany has a lot of skills already in the box – but they do need directing, it needs to be taught the benefit of self control and a little and often is the way to go. |
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| doganjo |
Guy, this is wonderful stuff. So much better than trying to read chunks copied from someone else's writing.
Even I can follow and understand it. Thank you. Annie |
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| Wyngold |
The only time I have ever seen a dog pull on a "prong-pinch" collar not "Spike" collar is when it was not installed/fitted or used properly.
The spanish traditional "Spike" collar is a leather flat collar with 2 staggered rows of Roofing like nails.----such a device should not be used ever. Was used on pointers to teach steadiness in the early 1900's and even still seen on occasion today. Some "French" professionals use a wicker rug beater to wack the dog over the shoulders to get it to drop when they release the birds from the trap to steady it. This after repeatedly teaching it to drop on command. Ever watch a loose running dog at a trial get told to "stop" and watch him sink in the shoulder???? Wonder why the younger trainers are getting better results then their forefathers??? Ever train with the top trainers in France??? see what tools they use...they are the exact same ones we use in the USA. Maybe this is why we can trust our dogs to run as far as they can in search of tough to find game and still know they will not be flushing them willy nilly out of the county out of gun range but hold them until we get there. As for the "reward" methods yes they are great to shape a behavior. I use them all the time as well. But what about how do you contrast what is undesirable. So would you feed the desired behavior and when suddenly the dog forgets you and bolts and you have no lead stand around and wait for however long it takes for the dog to return to your side to get focused on you again? If it were off leash does this mean that in that time your dog could be dead or otherwise because the only thing it is learning is what is correct but that there are no consequences for wrong actions other than being ignored? This is why I believe and still use a "Balanced" approache to training. I understand that the use of pure positives for fun and games is dandy when life and limb is not in jeopardy. But here a dog caught running livestock can be shot with no questiones asked, just having a loose dog on your property and you owning livestock gives you a license to drop the dog with a gun. It will not matter to the person playing dog show obedience or agility games as that does not require strict compliance its a game.... While hunting competitions are a game as well there is also a slight risk to life when the game is shot....one accidental rush and leap when the gun is fired could give you a dead or seriously injured dog. So yes Anne...obviously you do not know how to use a check chain properly or were not taught how to use it , or a half check, if your dog has had its coat damaged. you were also not taught how to correct properly and have been yanking and yanking or allowing the dog to pull which is what caused the damage to the coat. They do make nylon checks and flat nylon half checks to train with. They even make special ones so that the collar "fits" properly in the "groove" where all collars should be placed for maximum effect with minimum force. And yes take if for what it's worth, as anything you read on the web is most probably B.S. especially when it comes from folks who never finished, trained professionally, or worked as a behaviorists. |
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| doganjo |
Thank you. I will try to remember that. |
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| Pippa's Pack |
I think there are several effective training methods and what works for one dog might not work for another. I have had dogs all my life and now own four Brittanys so do have some experience. However, I am not a very good trainer as I am well aware that I am probably too soft with them. Until I owned a Brittany I had never owned a dog that pulled on the lead to any great extent so the problem did not arise.
Just as we do not all follow the same rules when we bring up our children so it is with our dogs. Someone else's method is not necessarily wrong, may even be better but if you are not comfortable with it then do not use it. I think part of the Brittany's problem is its zest for life and its very nature. But this is one of the things we love about them. We cannot have it all. On a practical note, some people find using a longer lead which can be fixed around the body in a similar manner to as harness to be quite effective. Also some short walks where there are not too many interesting smells and distractions can help (but watch out for cats under cars and up alleyways!!). Finally, when they get to 14 they seem to get the message and are really no trouble at all so something to look forward to
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| Patricia |
It seems to be 2 of the major issues. Pulling or running off. Guy is right in the focus thing and how important the human is in the dog's life. How you start a puppy off, what you get it to do, how much discipline it has and knows what is allowed or not.
In using a " check" chain- it is NOT a choke chain- it must be used correctly and it clicks when released. Check, release, praise, tit bits. Pull on lead, check, strong voice with the heel command. Proof of sucess shows in the dog's behaviour? Whichever you choose, as long as it works! |
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| .:HayleyH:. |
I bought this book yesterday! I've only read a bit of the introduction so far but it's really interesting.
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