How do you stop your dog pulling ??

debbi · How do you stop your dog pulling ??

Any ideas how to stop my dog, Hendrix who is one from pulling on the lead, we have tried everything - the harness seemed to work when he was smaller but each time i walk him i nearly dislocate my arm!!

I have tried the "stop and turn" method - no luck
I have also tried to pull him in sharply with no luck and the head collar he just slips out of!!

Patricia

Not very " politically correct" here. But I have always found a good old fashion check chain to do the trick. Command " heel" then step off, If the dog goes ahead pulling a firm " heel" and check when he is at the end of the lead. The check chain will click. A good tip: go to obedience classes where this can be demonstrated. As long as you find some which will not find this method" cruel" Confused

Or there is a " pulli" harness which appears to work well. Sold in good pet shops.Good luck.

debbi · dog pulling

we have tried the check chain, and even this doesnt stop him, he just pants more as he pulls!! i may try the pulli harness

Patricia

Debbie, if your dog is levering against the check chain, then you may not be using it properly. It needs to be used with a reasonably firm jerk. Have you anyone experienced in your area? Who could show you? Otherwise, as I said a Pulli harness seems to be good for a lot of people. It is worth a try. I see you have having some trouble, can you not contact your breeder for advice too??
Patricia

Patricia

Somehting along that line...It has good reviews:
http://www.petplanet.co.uk/product_group.asp?dept_id=112&pg_id=184

guy

A trick I was shown is to take a half hitch with the lead around the dogs abdomen.

Harnesses stop the dog pulling; they don't teach the dog not to pull.

When you put on a choke chain the chain connected to the lead goes over teh top of the dogs neck, down under its throat and ends in a ring around the original piece of chain. this is important - so when the dog does not pull the lead goes slack and the 'choke' releases itself.
The easy way to do this is drop the body of the chain through one ring and then hold the collar so it looks like a letter P and then put it on the dog - from the front

if put on the other way the loop stays firm. As Patricia said once the dog is used to it it is the 'click' noise that does the work. it is effective because of what the dog thinks the collar will do not what it does. I have seen dogs pulling against prong collars (like a choke chain but with spikes that point into the neck) so it is not the tightening of the collar that is doing the correcting.

A useful concept I was introduced to was 'control of the space in front' at its simplest you step in front of the dog if it pulls ahead. I also saw this video which you may find interesting / useful.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoJPUH6ULLc&NR=1

Victoria

Your houdini with his collar, naughty Hendrix!! I have found that by having the collar closed enough to allow you to place two fingers comfortably and no more between the collar and the dogs neck will not allow them to slip their collars. Don't despair.

sallie

Hi Debbie

Check chains Confused

no comment apart from they should be banned!!

Someone on the BCGB mentioned about a Canny Collar - they work really well and i would recommend them... i use one on Monet, fantastic! Mind you they don't teach them not to pull because when we are out hunting i use a slip lead and he still pulls. Pulling makes walking a nightmare, but persevere and be consistant - thats meant to pay off, but when i don't know Laughing

sallie

Sorry Debbi - i spelt your name wrong twice Embarassed

and i should get names right as i spell mine differently too - Sallie

eddieh

Somebody once showed me a method which entailed creating a long loop of the lead (which is still clipped to the collar) and allowing that loop to rest below the neck, just at the top of the front legs. I found that it does work but you have to acquire (which I haven't) the knack of keeping the loop in the right place. We are fortunate enough to live not too far from the Wood Green animal shelter at Godmanchester (near Huntingdon)and recently bought a Walkeeze harness from them. This harness appears to be based on the technique (poorly) described above.There are other harnesses which appear to work in a similar manner. The staff at Wood Green are quite helpful and are willing to let you try harnesses and collars (including headcollars which your dog might find more comfortable than the one you have tried) to find one which suits (one good reason for not doing everything online). Hopefully you can find a shop where the staff are as accommodating.

I'm not sure if Guy was referring to this type of harness in his post.I think he might be talking about the vast majority of harnesses which just "spread the load". I agree that this harness will not teach my dog not to pull, that's my job. What I hope it will do is deter her from pulling (which it does) and help me to teach her not to pull. Does that make sense or does it come across as complete gobbledygook.[/i]

guy

eddieh

That's sort of what I was trying to say. Very Happy

Thanks for putting that link up.

He doesn't do a "Handling at an increasing distance" seminar does he Laughing

guy

his premise is that you have to be able to control the close before doing it at a distance.

His methods are reward based - not treats - rewards. He was demonstrating the use of a toy as a reward. You can use it instantly - you mark the action with a verbal or other cue and throw the dog it's toy; dog instantly rewarded, doesn't have to come in for a treat or you move to the dog.

debbi

Thanks for the help, i will give some of the suggestions a try - wish me luck!!

Dave A

It sounds very similar to police dog training were the reward is its favourite ball or as you say a toy, I have never tried it for gundog training though.

Patricia

Toys are all very well but some Brittanys are not motivated by the latter. Especially not mine. I find food works better for me. Each to their own as even the Britanys have their own individuality. As for " choke" chains, they are not meant to be as such but..to " check" not choke. I use them with success and my dogs are not traumatised or half throttled!!! Confused

Ghilliegumdrop

I went into a large garden center near Cambridge the other day and was looking at the checkchains in the pet center. When I asked the girl if they had any other sizes of checkchain she looked at me and said 'oh, you mean chokechains Question

' I said 'no I don't I mean check chains' To which the answer was 'What's the difference Question

'

So......I told her Twisted Evil

I'm sure she is not convinced but there you go.

Debbi, whereabouts do you live as we could maybe point you in the direction of a good training club in your area.

Patricia

Absolutely right here. A good training club is essential especially if it might be your first Brittany. Dog pulling is nothing new, and you have to start young. Good manners, walk to heel before reaching adulthood, waiting to got through doors, sit on command, wait etc...then you apply outside. Start with short exercises, make them simple. A few paces of good heelwork, then praise. Either by food, toys or clicker training. Same with the rest. Keep it short and simple. Then extend. The KC should have lists of approved obedience clubs.
I am a pet dog trainer and oops Embarassed

I use check chains!!! Try to pacify a great big Lab pulling your arm off. not much fun and haltis and harnesses are not allowed in the class. Rolling Eyes

glynis

Hi everyone I think that the approach with the lead around the front of the dog is from TTouch, but you need a long lead to do this. Alternatively you could try clicker training which is absolutely fantastic! dogs learn really quickly using this method. The reason a dog pulls on the lead is two-fold a) the dog thinks that s/he is in charge and b) that is the only way they know how to walk. So I guess what I am saying is that the walk starts before you go out of the front door. Sorry if I am teaching my grandmother to suck eggs etc but at home put the lead on and click and treat when the dog has gone 2 steps in the direction you want with out pulling and then 3 steps etc, it doesn't take that long to set up and hopefully you will be amazed at the results. Hope I've made sense! Laughing

Glynis & Fen

CharlieandKatiesDad

Having spent 21 years 'attached' to a Brittany I can only repeat the opinion that I have previously expressed in the club newsletter, and elsewhere, which is that as far as Britts are concerned a lead is just that...a device to lead you to wherever it wants to go (normally as quickly as possible!). I have found far more success in training them to walk to heel off the lead than on. 'Halti' collars which go over the muzzle are effective, but be prepared for other owners to think that it is a muzzle and therefore think your dog is dangerous. Other strategies include changing direction or stopping immediately the dog pulls on the lead seem to be quite effective. Have you read any of Jan Fennell's books? I would highly recommend them although doubt that she has ever worked with a Brittany! Start in the garden and work your way outwards and don't give up - they are truly the best companions you could ever have.
Peter