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Patricia
Bretonnier


Joined: 09 Mar 2008
Posts: 1217


Location: Suffolk

PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 4:37 pm    Post subject: basics Reply with quote

It appears some folks appear to have problems with heel work, obedience etc...running off, getting run over on the road being one of the tragic consequences.
If you are going to work your Brittany, it needs to be aware of game scent and reasonably young.

Whatever you do with your dog, my idea is- and it is my finding- that obedience HAS to be installed.
Whether you do field work or else, direction, blind retrieves, it boils down to obedience and routine sessions.
I always start by heel work as I hate a Brittany which pulls. Voice is really important as well as praise. I hold my long lead in my right hand and the lead is slack. If the dog pulls I check with my left hand and command " heel" praise and titbit.
Another exercise is the sit which I demand. Command and push  down on the rear end not its kidneys though Crying or Very sad I always carry a whistle and blow it as soon as I ask for a sit. That is the beginning of the drop on command.
All exercises are done close and then I use a long line, so no mucking about and leaping up or down etc...Once good basics are well into the dog's brain, it is amazing how much more pleasurable those walks or other activities become.
Very Happy
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Mugi
Bretonnier


Joined: 24 Oct 2006
Posts: 1304



PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

........... and don't give up when hormones kick in Laughing .

Chase has been hard work but also sooooo worthwhile. He will behave well for me and do all the basics with bells on but he pushes my buttons cos he is bright Rolling Eyes  Laughing . In the field he can be quite awe inspiring as he has soo much natural talent and he will use it in partnership with me, not just for him.

This week he has really been testing me, I think cos he and Piper are forging an unholy alliance. I could give up but am too stubborn......so his life has returned to NILIF. This evening he was demanding supper so guess who had to work for it and not gob in my face????
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guy
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Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 2456


Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have come across two schools of thought - one says put in heel work early and the other that puts walking to heel as the last thing to be taught.  

I personally don't like having a dog pull me along, if I wanted that I would have got a huskie.

When a beginner i came across a lot of advice along the lines - each dog is different and know your dog.  All this is fine when you have something to compare it to but a little hard to implement when this is your first time through the process.

As Patricia says you have to decide what you want from your dog.  I would go a little further and say if you don't expect much you will never get much.

Firstly develop a very limited vocabulary and if possible maintain the same tone of voice to deliver those words.  Avoid superfluous words as these only encourage the dog to jump to its own conclusions - 'get off' 'get over' 'get in' - 'get' brings nothing to the party.  ' sit down' is a contradiction to most dogs - 'sit' is one thing and 'down' another.

Second be consistent.  If you don't want a dog to jump up then don't allow it to jump up - at any time; it won't know you have had a bad hair day.  Puppies are sweet and endearing but how will a dog know it can do something as a puppy and then not be expected to do it as an adult?

Be persistent.  practice makes perfect.  If you are trying to teach a 'trick' and the dog doesn't get the idea you automatically leave it until the next day and try again.  The same applies to a 'skill' if it does not catch on  try again, later.

Fun - or perhaps  this should be  'no pressure'  when a dog is young it will learn as you play.
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Beauty from Structure
www.epagneulbreton.org.uk
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sallie
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twisted Evil  Twisted Evil  and if it doesn't work? Monet is 2.5 and has NEVER walked to heel (maybe he could have a trip to you Patricia) - the only way i have got around this problem is to control the ground in front of him, this i do with 'whistle to sit' if he gets too far ahead i whistle - also it has to be done off the lead. You can start this sort of training in backyards and lanes where it is quiet and NO game distraction.
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Liz
Bretonnier


Joined: 06 Aug 2006
Posts: 408


Location: Scottish Borders

PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you do if your dog ignores the treats!   I've tried various from plain kibble up to pepperoni, but if Oz isn't in the mood he will just totally ignore them.   He did it last night at class - off lead he just looked at me and went in the opposite direction Evil or Very Mad

If he is in the mood he will heel off lead beautifully, with or without treats. Shocked

I've always had problems with my dogs on the lead STARTING their walks.   Once they've had some off lead time they're great coming home.
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Patricia
Bretonnier


Joined: 09 Mar 2008
Posts: 1217


Location: Suffolk

PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Guy says makes good sense. Everyone has different expectations. Some are perfectionists, some are sloppy. Some don't care if the dog heels "sort of", some want it beside the knee.
I was brought up with a strict father, we had to sit up at the table, hold our cutlery correctly and ask to speak at the table too!
I expect no less of my dogs> Confused  No one is allowed to come tearing out of the kennels, they have to wait til" released" and heel for a few yards, I don't let them barge past the door, and pulling on lead is a NO NO...
I start them at about 4 months and use voice to express what I think they will understand. If the dog does not respond to tit bits, I scratch the chest area with a pleased voice. If he/she pulls I do an " about turn" and stop. I either use a slip lead or check chain, which has never been an issue in all the years I have done it.( but not on puppies)
If they pull, I stop and growl at them. When this is established, we go off lead. I do this in a yard, not grass. ( smells can be too tempting)
I try to get the dog motivated. Carry a piece of cheese and get them" watching". And only do it for a short while, I don't believe in boring a young dog.
If not successful( in whatever) I put the dog away. Start again the next day, it usually sinks in better. Repetition is the key imo.
I also NEVER reward the dog with a walk or anything pleasurable if he does not do what I ask of him first. Rolling Eyes
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rachieh



Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 4


Location: London, UK

PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What do you do when you dog has gone backwards ... ? I would really appreciated some advice on this.

Scout lived with our breeder out in Canada for 7 months when we had to return home to the UK in a hurry - he had not completed the pet passport process. While there, he lived the working/show/kennel life and was hardly on a lead at all. He was never great at heeling in the first place (he is only 2) and now every walk is a  battle. I can't let him off leash as his recall is too unpredictable and there are no completely enclosed parks locally - roads too dangerous.

I have had sessions with two local trainers but it is all very food reward oriented and he just doesn't care about cheese once he smells those smells! He's good in the house and listens to me, but loses his head once we get outside. Any advice?
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guy
Site Admin


Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 2456


Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there - without seeing you and the dog it is hard to say.  But I think I would go back to some fundamentals.

sit before being given his food, allowed to eat only on command.

Sit before going outside through a doorway and you going first and calling him out.

in other words those things that reinforce our position as 'top dog'

You need the dog to be 'looking up' metaphorically to you, and therefore wanting to know what to do next rather than it doing its own thing.

Come down to Hampshire - I can suggest a couple places where you can run him deer fenced fields.  Could also give him a run out with a dog that will come back.
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Beauty from Structure
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annemcc



Joined: 03 Nov 2008
Posts: 3



PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:14 pm    Post subject: Problems with Pulling on Lead - advice please Reply with quote

Hi,

I've never posted before but our Brittany puppy (Beano) is almost 1 year and we are still having problems with pulling on the lead. We have been to 3 trainers and put in loads of work every day but we are obviously doing something wrong! In the house he is fantastic and very obedient but as soon as we are out he just can't contain himself. We have tried check chain, halti waving a cane in front of his nose and turning round every time he pulls. The turning around method has been the most successful for us but we don't get very far... He does get off the lead every day and recall is good for my husband but not for me.

Any suggestions would be very welcome as my back cannot take much more!

Thanks,
Anne
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doganjo
Bretonnier


Joined: 26 Aug 2008
Posts: 1844


Location: scotland

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't let him have his free running till he stops pulling.  Take him out on the lead, making him sit till you go through your door/gate etc.  Use the turning round method and also reversing, and if he pulls take him straight back inside with NO WALK!  He will learn quickly.



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Handle every situation like a dog, if you can't eat it or play with it, just pee on it and walk away
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